Must Know

AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: Thirty Fijian dollars (about S15US), included in many packages; children under 12 are exempt.

KEY GIFT: For men, a bula shirt; for women, a sari.

DON'T FORGET: To bone up on your own country's history and political and social scene; the curious Fijians will ask you about them.

THE VIBE: The original Polynesian panacea.

TOPSIDE: Lush rain forests, secluded waterfalls, fresh fruit that the Fijians will most likely invite you to pick off the tree, private islands with thatched-room bungalows, and the surprise of French cosmopolitan cities on Viti Levu.

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