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AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: None; you can spend your last folding money on umbrella drinks.

KEY GIFT: A black pearl; it's not just the title of a Disney movie. DON'T FORGET: Some conversational French-lesson MP3 files for the flight over (and a pocket French-English dictionary). THE VIBE: Honeymoon-romantic against a pristine natural backdrop. TOPSIDE: Come here with a significant other; this is the honeymoon capital of the universe. This is a place of open beaches, over-water bungalows, French pastries and a people so handsome that you can easily understand why European sailors used to jump ship here.

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