Must Know

AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: A $35 departure tax is generally built into the price of your ticket.

KEY GIFT: A handmade straw basket or bag.

DON'T FORGET: Sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses; this is not an indoors sort of place.

THE VIBE: Wide-open spaces, throttled down slow. TOPSIDE: Looking for an offshore business center? You'll find it in Providenciales with its boutique shopping and condo resorts. But venture beyond there, and you and the wild donkeys might have a beach to yourselves. Middle and North Caicos are still wonderfully empty.

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