Must Know

AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: The "Conch Republic" isn't charging them yet. KEY GIFT: A replica coin based on the treasure trove found in the shipwreck of the Atocha.

DON'T FORGET: Your sense of humor; the farther west you go, the wackier this place gets.

THE VIBE: The subtropical paradise that you can drive to. TOPSIDE: Sea-turtle hospitals, fishing boats and houseboats, underwater weddings, bartenders who get elected mayor, ocean-view drives where the ocean is under you, treasure and diving museums, feeding the tarpon, and partying with the ghost of Ernest Hemingway.

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