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AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: US$17 departure tax. KEY GIFT: A traditional Mayan hammock.

DON'T FORGET: Budget in some time for luggage inspection when you arrive; you may be randomly selected for inspection. THE VIBE: Fiesta and sun with convivial hosts.

TOPSIDE: Low jungle with Mayan ruins, cruise-terminal bustle countered by a shopping district where shopkeepers take time to chat with you, families in Sunday best going to church four to a bicycle, lighthouses, Mayan culture, little old hotels and big new ones, palm-lined coasts, and a different great place for dinner every night of the trip.

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