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AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: US$21 departure tax. KEY GIFT: Batik-print apparel from the Caribelle Batik factory. DON'T FORGET: A good set of small binoculars for creature-sighting in the rainforest.

THE VIBE: Primal and pure with the Loch Ness monster of the Caribbean, a.k.a., "The Thing."

TOPSIDE: A rugged and natural landscape with green verticality everywhere one looks. Villages that have developed the block party to an elevated art form. An outdoors environment that might convince you to never see the inside of your hotel room by daylight.

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