Must Know

AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: International departure tax is $20.

KEY GIFT: Hand-painted kunuku, which is Papiamentu for whimsical little houses. And for yourself, the Bonaire Marine Park token.

DON'T FORGET: Open-heel fins and booties; many Bonairean shore dives are from shattered-rock beaches.

THE VIBE: Eat, sleep, dive, dive, dive, dive, dive.

TOPSIDE: Scrubby, cactus-pocked interior, East Side sand flats, the largest flock of flamingos in the Western hemisphere, and a capital city that you can drive through in less than five minutes flat.

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