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AIRPORT/EXIT FEES: US$5 for flights within the Netherlands Antilles; $10 for international destinations.

KEY GIFT: Some blue beads that you've found yourself ... if you can find them.

DON'T FORGET: To wave hello. If you don't reciprocate a wave here, you'll be set down as a major grump. THE VIBE: A laid-back, natural high.

TOPSIDE: Calm Caribbean beaches and an Atlantic coast where rocks are pounded by waves. Coastal areas resplendent with tropical flowers, while the interior is arid. Six taxi cabs and a single town, Oranjestad.

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