British Virgin Islands

ABANDON SHIP

1. Trailing a school of squirrelfish on the wreck of the Rhone. 2. Exploring a tug on Wreck Alley. 3. The BVI are a world-renowned sailing ground. 4. A coney comes in for its close-up.

When Jimmy Buffett wrote his hit song, "Cheeseburger in Paradise," he was singing about a marina restaurant at Road Town harbor on Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands. As the singer later recalled it, it wasn't that the cheeseburger was all that great — it was actually kind of overcooked. But he was surprised to find one at all in such a remote, green, exotic, out-of-the-way place.

Times have changed. Today, if you want a cheeseburger on Tortola — or ribs, or haute cuisine or roti — you'll have a wide choice. Even on Anegada, the most far-flung of the British Virgins, you can radio ahead and have freshly baked cinnamon rolls waiting for you at the dock. But, be that as it may, the BVIs remain remote, green and out-of-the-way. While proving

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