Using the Handy Board, the wiring is quite easy. Separate wires to each of the motors, the servo, the ultrasonic sensor, and all other sensors need to be run to the computer. The barrier strip is used as a breaking point for the motor wiring and the CdS sensors in such a way that, if something is changed later, the short wiring on the bottom bat is all that needs changing.

All wires should be long enough to be attached to one of the stand-offs. Using a zip tie or other wrap will keep the wiring neat and reliable. With the wires hanging loose, they tend to get hooked on things and eventually break. Other options for attaching the wiring to the stand-offs would include bread ties, heat shrink tubing, and scrap wire.

To connect to the Handy Board, the 0.1" header strips are used. The header strips supply power and ground, allowing sensors to have pull up or pull down, as well as a voltage supply. The optical sensors need a supply voltage for the LED and a current limiting resistor. Using individual connections is best, allowing for easier maintenance and assured orientation.

The sonar has a fairly stiff ribbon wire. There is a special connector needed for this. The Handy Board expansion board has the proper connector, but — using careful connections — the stock Handy Board can support the Polaroid sonar. This wire is about the right length for this chassis.

Some of the wiring should be done while the top and bottom are separated. It is much easier to wire the motors and sensors on the bottom bat before assembling to the top. "Dry fitting" can be done, to get the proper wire length. Assembly and disassembly of the chassis should be quite easy with the proper tools.

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